Pisac Ruins: An Underrated Inca Site?
People visiting Peru are understandably obsessed with visiting Machu Picchu; such is the worldwide fame of this ancient site. This Inca citadel is truly spectacular, and every visitor to Peru should visit it, without doubt. But the Sacred Valley has so much more to offer, and I am not talking about going way off the beaten track either, although that is a great thing to do also.
There are lots of smaller, lesser-known archaeological sites that are only a short distance from the main drag, but most tourists will never see them. Ancasmarka is a classic example of a lovely site with virtually no one at it. It’s not directly accessible from the main road, so most operators will not want to include it, even though it’s only a 30-minute detour.
The ruins at Ollantaytambo are the opposite of Ancasmarka. I have always been impressed with Ollanta (shortened name for ease), and this site is one that every visitor gets to see as it is located in the town from which trains leave for Machu Picchu. Hence it’s an obligatory visit, which is a very good thing, apart from the terrible traffic jams!
But Pisac ruins, another really impressive Inca site which sits virtually on the main road, can often be overlooked, or may be impossible for some people to visit if they go directly to Ollantaytambo via Chincheros. If clients are short on time, then Pisac is often excluded from their Sacred Valley itinerary. Not experiencing the Pisac ruins and the (now) lovely town square is a missed step, in our opinion.
Until last week, I hadn’t been to Pisac on my own for several years; I used to go with clients in the early days, and more recently my wife and I have gone with visiting friends and family, but solo visits are few and far between. When I do go on my own, I like to hike up from the village, which is something very few clients or, in fact, any visitors would ever do, as it is quite a tough hike. The vast majority of people will be driven to the main site entrance and walk in, along the flat terraces. From there, they have the option to climb to the high points of the site. That climb will not exceed 100 meters of vertical gain, and even at this altitude, that effort is manageable for most people, and the views are spectacular.
If you climb from the village itself, starting at around 2920 meters above sea level, to the very highest point of the site, located at a lofty 3525 (11,564 feet), you will have ascended around 600 vertical meters, or nearly 2000 feet, in a short distance. The route up is very steep and not great underfoot, so it’s not for novice hikers or anyone with vertigo.
The ascent took me a little under 2 hours, including a stop for a picnic. What a delight it is to sit with a sandwich and a “plastic” of red wine in hand (alcohol not recommended for the non-acclimatised!), taking in the sweeping views you can see in my photos. This steep route can also be enjoyed just in descent if you ask your tour company to drive you to the main site entrance and pick you up in the main square after you have had your guided tour and then take the walk down. I passed many more people going down rather than up, which makes sense! But be warned, it is still not an easy hike down, as it is tough on your knees.
The site is huge, and this time I noticed lots of sectors I had forgotten existed. There are examples of very fine stonework, many interesting circular buildings perched on the edge of cliffs, and of course the massive terrace complexes. After touring around the site for an hour or so, I took the route on the eastern side of the mountain to get back down to the town. This shows you another angle on the site, with more buildings and more terraces.
After a really satisfying afternoon of walking, you will arrive back in the main plaza of Pisac. For years, many people, myself included, were moaning that you couldn’t even see the lovely plaza due to all the market traders and their blue plastic-covered stalls. It was a real mess and made spending time there not very agreeable at all. Thankfully, this changed around 12 years ago when a covered market was built for the vendors and the plaza was opened up, the church renovated, and many cafes and restaurants established themselves around the square.
It’s the cherry on the cake to sit on a sunny balcony in the square enjoying something to eat and drink after taking in one of the most underrated ancient sites you will ever see.
Recommendations for Hiking Pisac Ruins:
- If you hike in the afternoon, there is more shade.
- Take a sun hat and sun block.
- Good hiking shoes.
- Plenty of water and maybe a snack.
- Don’t forget your entry ticket.
- Go up and come down via different routes to see more of the site.
- Don’t get distracted when taking photos; there are some steep drops.
- End up in the main square of Pisac for refuelling on a balcony!
Pisac ruins are waiting for you. Enjoy!
